I couldn't hack it

It was just too brutal.

Wednesday, 5 November: Wooooobama!

I spent hours and hours today riding uphill through dense fog and drippy rain. It was brutal, with no compensatory views. I literally had to eat every three miles because I was expending so much energy. The cars and I couldn't see each other until they were right up on me, and there was no shoulder, so every time I heard a car coming I just pulled off onto the grass, thankful for the break and the fact that the pavement didn't have a big drop off at the edge.

I finally reached a high point and headed down into sunshine and beauty and fast fast rolling. My goal of reaching the only open campground in the park, 42 miles from my starting point, and having a shower was starting to look attainable. Then I reached the low point and started heading back up again. I consulted my maps, and it looked like I was in for some ridiculous climbing, so I took the opportunity provided by the crossroad at the low point to exit the park for good. At least I can say I've been to Shenandoah National Park.

I had a wonderful roll out of the mountains, into the sun and warmth and gently rolling farmland hills. I was on a fantastically smooth road with little traffic, headed for a campground that my AAA campbook said existed, and had tent sites. I considered calling ahead, but I couldn't get reception when I thought of calling, and my phone was dying and I wanted to hurry to get there before dark. The campbook had not yet led me astray.

I arrived at the campground about ten minutes before sunset, only to be told that they only accepted RVs, and had no place for tent campers. I pretty much pleaded with the woman to just let me camp on the lawn where no children were playing, but she would not budge, and had no compunctions about turning a lone cyclist away at sunset. She tried to direct me to a campground that was "eight" miles away (closer to ten. I saw the sign. But who's counting?) but I said I couldn't make it that far tonight. She sent me instead to a somewhat pricey bed and breakfast-- although it's not as bad as that hotel in Jersey!-- that was "three" miles away. Actually 4.75, and this time I'm counting.

I arrived just as it was getting dark enough to be scary, and man, did she do me a favor sending me here! The couple running the place just keep getting nicer. The woman said she would knock ten bucks of the price, then she gave me dinner (I think the applesauce was homemade!), then she knocked another fifteen off. It's basically just a big house (I guess that's what B&Bs usually are) with two guestrooms. Mine is a whole little suite over the garage with a kitchenette and a tv and everything. I was excited about watching "Pushing Daisies," but it doesn't seem to be on. Man, that month off sure brought back the tv addict right quick.

The ups and downs today were steep like the mountains.